We’d all been craving a change in temperature, so we jumped at the chance to head to Hong Kong over our children’s half-term break. The weather had been wildly unpredictable in the weeks before — dipping as low as 2°C, then climbing back into the mid-twenties just as we arrived.
Coming from Singapore, where it’s essentially summer year-round, I found myself in a complete spin over what to pack. It’s funny how quickly you forget how to dress for cooler weather when your wardrobe is permanently in warm-climate mode. In the end, we relished every opportunity to wear jeans, light layers, and the occasional jacket.
Hong Kongers are said to be among the most active walkers in the world — and I believe it. We clocked up to 26,000 steps on some days, so comfortable sneakers are an absolute must.
Our trip coincided with Chinese New Year, so we expected crowds and a few closures. Still, there was plenty to keep everyone happy. My nearly thirteen-year-old was thrilled to discover a four-storey Brandy Melville (arguably more exciting than any historical landmark), alongside other teen favourites like American Eagle and Subdued.
Unlike my earlier trips to Hong Kong in my twenties — which revolved around work and late nights in Lan Kwai Fong — this visit felt entirely different. I’ve come to appreciate just how much natural beauty surrounds the city. The contrast of soaring skyscrapers, colonial architecture, and lush, mountainous backdrops makes Hong Kong feel incredibly dynamic.
COFFEE
Good coffee is never hard to find in Hong Kong, and these were some standout stops:
📍SOCIAL GOODS - on Wellington Street but access from Pottinger Street, Central. Sadly didn’t try those pastries as we were off to lunch (I should have had the pistachio one to go with my Olive Ophelia bag - wasted opportunity!) @socialgoods.club
📍FINEPRINT - Peel Street, SoHo - we brought back some espresso beans and instantly regretting not buying more - it is DELICIOUS. @fineprint.hk
📍YUKKURI - Prince Edward Street West, Kowloon - coffee and light bites were off the chart, cute cat an added bonus. @yukkuri.hk
RESTAURANTS
Food was, unsurprisingly, a central focus of the trip. These were some of our favourites — with a few still on the list for next time:
RESTAURANTS
📍Samsen - 68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai - Thai noodle street food recommended in Michelin Guide. Next to iconic heritage Blue House.
📍Monogamous Chinese - Mid-Levels, Caine Rd - tucked away under the escalators, retro living room vibes with sensational Sichuan and regional food.
📍Terracotta Lamma - Lamma Island (see notes below)
📍Cooshti - Japanese / Asian fusion. Colonial vibes, tasty food everyone enjoyed.
📍Man Mo Dimsum & Wine - delicious dim sum with quirky French-Chinese combinations.
📍Mak's Noodles - Michelin acclaimed wonton noodles
📍Chilli Fagara - Michelin Sichuan restaurant (famously VERY spicy)
📍Pane e Latte - Stanley Market Italian café with great pasta + brunch
GETTING ABOUT
Hong Kong’s public transport is incredibly efficient and easy to navigate. We took the train straight from the airport into Central, and from there relied on a mix of walking, trams, taxis, ferries, and the MTR.
The iconic “Ding Ding” tram is a must — slow, charming, and a great way to take in the city. The Star Ferry across to Kowloon was another highlight (and free during Chinese New Year, thanks to a festive promotion).
HIKING / NATURE
One of the most surprising aspects of Hong Kong is just how much nature is on its doorstep. The Dragon’s Back hike was a highlight — misty, atmospheric, and reminiscent of a windswept English coastal walk.
We also visited The Peak on a brilliantly clear day, with sweeping views across the city that felt truly iconic. My husband managed another hike up to Lion Rock on the Kowloon side before we arrived and for our next trip I want to do the Violet Hill walk a friend suggested.
LAMMA ISLAND
One evening, we jumped on a ferry — quite literally, we nearly missed it — and headed over to Lamma Island (Yung Shue Wan Pier). Leaving from Central, the ferry takes only half an hour or so and you get a great view of the city from the boat.
We’d allowed plenty of time to wander and explore, though it turned out there wasn’t a huge amount to see beyond colourful houses, a temple and a man walking his pet iguana (one of THE most bizarre sights to behold). We had a booking at Terracotta Lamma (see above), so instead settled in for a relaxing cocktail while watching the incredible sunset, eating a delicious dinner then racing off to catch the ferry (clearly had misread the ferry schedule and almost missed that one too).
It’s hard to believe somewhere so peaceful exists just beyond the intensity of Hong Kong’s cityscape.
SHOPPING
Shopping was, unsurprisingly, a highlight — particularly for my tween daughter, who was in her element. While I found it slightly overwhelming at times, we discovered some great spots, from bustling markets (Stanley Market & Ladies Market) to small vintage stores in Sheung Wan.
KOWLOON WALLED CITY
On our last day, we’d briefly considered jumping on a train to Shenzhen, but a chat with a friendly taxi driver quickly put that idea to rest — given it was Chinese New Year, he told us everything would likely be shut. My son had been keen to go and practise his Mandarin (as, of course, Cantonese is the spoken language in Hong Kong), so we’ve parked that for next time…
Instead, we headed to Kowloon Walled City Park — a beautifully serene garden set on the site of what was, until the mid-1990s, a self-governed enclave. It’s a piece of Hong Kong history I hadn’t known much about, and it was completely fascinating.
Once considered the most densely populated place on earth, around 35,000 residents lived within just 2.6 hectares. There’s a small exhibition within the park that recreates scenes of what life was like — and it’s hard to imagine. The area was effectively unregulated, home to unlicensed doctors and dentists, brothels, and tightly packed buildings stacked upon one another without proper foundations or sanitation. It existed in a kind of legal grey zone, slipping between British colonial oversight and Chinese jurisdiction.
UNTIL NEXT TIME…
We packed an incredible amount into a short trip — from hiking and ferry rides to memorable meals and market wandering. The cooler weather alone felt like a novelty, and Hong Kong’s unique blend of energy and nature makes it endlessly appealing.
I’m already compiling a list for our next visit. If you have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them.